We could probably argue all day about definitions of "upscale" and "high end" when it comes to dining. Some folks would base this strictly on expenditure... if you spend over a C-note on dinner for two it had better be "upscale". Personally, we've dropped that C-note and more at places that will never see our faces again. Susan and I tend to place a premium on quality, on both service and gastronomics, Cafe Provence is one of those places.
Chef/owners Patrick and Daniel Quillec once managed a small dynasty of quintessential french restaurants in the greater Kansas City area; Hannah Bistro, Cafe Paris, Cassis and Cafe Provence. The venerable Cafe Provence is all that remains. You may want to compare notes from the previous french review then toss that out the window. To fully enjoy Cafe Provence you need to prepare yourself for what Susan describes as "stuffy french". This can understandably be an immediate turn off for some, but the french stuffiness is paramount to the dining experience. Intimate seating, white tableclothes, candles, old people in Prairie Village, impeccable service... this is 50% of upscale for us. Then comes the food. Think classic french bistro fare, smaller portions, and beautifully prepared and presented. As with so many of our meals, Michael starts with a cocktail, here a Manhattan or Vodka rocks three olives, and a white wine for Susan. Endive and blue, Caesar salad, foi gras and charcuterie to start, each somewhat austere in the presentation but stunning in the simple perfection of their flavors. Cafe Provence tends to have a set menu, with regular specials to highlight what's fresh and in season. I honestly recommend going for these specials as often as possible, but do not neglect the perfection on the regular menu; Filet Mignon aux Roquefort, Escalope de Veau aux Câpres, La Sole de Douvre, Flétan Philippe (how's that for fancy french typing). Perfection every time, the impression that this is what these classics are supposed to taste like, you're sure to find something that will leave you craving your next visit.
Monday, February 15, 2010
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